well, here it is another month or so since my last post. i’m keeping up a brisk pace here of a blog post per month on average, i sure hope you folks out there can keep up with the onslaught of fresh content rolling of the pages of brannonlacey.com. all joking aside, the last month or so has been fairly eventful out here in korea, i’m past due for an update. btw, the whole apology as an intro for each post is old hat, i need to come up with some new material.
first things first, the past month in korea has been tense. i’m talking about both koreas. in case you’ve spent the past month disconnected from the world (or somehow able to avoid cnn), you probably already know about the north koreans shelling a south korean military base near the border. if you don’t, go look it up, i’m not going to bore anyone with the details. what i will do is give you the perspective of a foreigner living in seoul throughout the whole dramatic period. before i do, thanks to those that were checking up on me, i sincerely appreciated the concern.
so, the past month has been pretty bizarre here in korea because i really don’t know how to react to this type of situation. it’s not everyday one gets to be partake in such an experience. when the shelling first happened i didn’t know whether i should be scared and planning an escape or if i should write it all off as typical north korean bellicosity. i live in seoul and most experts agree that if a war were to actually break out on the peninsula, there would be a minimum of two million casualties in seoul. furthermore, i happen to be working in the towering headquarters of the most iconic south korean company, it’s not too far-fetched to think that it might be a symbolic target. that all said, i have chosen the latter, because truthfully, i can’t see how anything has actually changed here in my day-to-day life. yes, we’ve done a war drill and hustled down to the basement of our office building. yes, there were korean troops doing attack response drills at one of other offices i work. but, all in all, my daily life hasn’t changed a bit. if the happy people of seoul can go on living without fear, i can too. these are a tough, resilient people who have been dealing with this type of outburst for years, i’m going to follow their lead.
my buddy dan keating asked me for an update when the shelling first happened and i sent him the following, which i think best sums up my feelings:
“…i gotta admit, this whole thing is a bit surreal. i turned on cnn this morning and thought to myself, “what country are they talking about?” because it didn’t represent the seoul that i’m experiencing right now. i took the bus to work this morning, had my usual korean language class, and now i’m sitting down at my desk to start my day… nothing’s changed. sure, there are some folks in my group that are little worried and are talking about packing an “oh shit” suitcase in case things do get crazy, but by and large it’s business as usual here.
i guess these folks are used to this type of outburst from their loose cannon sibling, so they don’t let it bother them. i think you’ll probably see the sk government use some fairly sharp rhetoric in the coming days, but only to satiate their hard line base here in korea. but it will stop there. they won’t dare retaliate, because a war is only a lose/lose proposition for the south. they lose, and they’ve lost… they win, well now they’ve got the problem of integrating a destitute country into their own. they’re quite happy with how things are going here now, i don’t think they want to mess that up…”
so, to close down this topic, things are fine over here in korea. it’s business as usual for this guy, and thanks for all of your concern. can someone pass the memo to cnn?
alright, now that serious stuff is out of the way, on to things of a warmer and fuzzier nature. my latest observations of seoul. here we go…
- the “high heel sprint.” this is one of those phenomena that is entirely unique to korea as far as i can tell and it’s something that has to be witnessed in person. simply put, people in korea are not afraid to take off sprinting spontaneously. young, old, man or woman, it doesn’t matter. women, however, are the most active sprinters. you see women running all the time, outdoors, indoors, food in hand, through traffic, through the office, in packs and always while wearing heels. this last bit is what makes the phenomena fascinating to me. in most of the world women complain about the discomfort of heels but here the ladies of korea have some type of secret zen mind control that allows them to not only wear heels all day every day, but to also periodically break into dead sprints while wearing them. you may ask, “why all the sprinting?” honestly, i don’t know. however, i believe one major reason is that there are strict rules here as to when you’re to be in the office each morning. here at samsung it’s 8am. so, as you can imagine, there is A LOT of high heel sprinting being done near 8am. any given weekday morning, in subways seoul-wide, but particularly in front of my building, from 7:57 onward, there are women running the anchor leg of a 4×100 meter race. it’s quite a sight to behold. for the record, i’ve never seen a single wipeout.
- seoul is probably the safest place i’ve ever lived and that’s saying a lot considering i grew up in a small town of about 5,000 people. i don’t have any empirical evidence to support this claim other than my own personal observations and experiences. one single experience stands out. about a month ago i wore a brand new sweater to the office in suwon and somehow ended up leaving it in the cafeteria after lunch on a wednesday. i didn’t realize it until i was on my way home for the night, which by then was too to turn around and look for it. i wasn’t back at this location until the following monday, 5 days later. in all honesty i’d written the sweater off. it was nice, surely someone found it and made it part of their wardrobe. so, as i’m walking out of the cafeteria that monday i notice a sweater, neatly folded, near the exit doors. sure enough, there was my sweater. it sat their multiple days, with thousands of people walking by it daily, and not a single person took it. told ya it was a feel good story.
- trash is not easy to manage here. unlike in the united states and most places where you can just accumulate trash and throw it away on trash day. here, you’ve got to separate the trash into three different groups, recyclables, food waste, and everything else. in order to this you’ve got to basically have three different trash cans. you also have to buy special garbage bags at the store to put your rubbish in. at first this was an extreme annoyance for me because i like the lazy man approach, but now that i’ve gotten used to it, it’s dawned on me that it’s really an enlightened way of handling trash. it’s a bit more of a burden on the every man, but it’s a more environmentally friendly and cost-effective way of managing waste. furthermore, it causes you to use less trash because you are more aware of what you’re throwing away. i don’t think it would ever fly in the states, but i like it.
- there’s no tipping here. this is something that as a former tipped employee used to bother me. but here, it’s almost offensive to try to hand somebody some money for good service. interestingly, there isn’t a decline in service levels here. in fact, the best service i’ve ever received, whether it be a hotel or otherwise, is here in seoul. people do things with a smile here and they do it untipped. it’s quite refreshing… i’ve heard that americans who stay here for a significant amount of time upon returning to live in the states experience a bit of “reverse culture shock” because of the tipping expectation in the states. i have an older gentleman that delivers my groceries from the local store, and he comes exactly when he tells me he will, delivers with a smile, engages me in some broken english and is just an all around pleasant guy. if i didn’t know better, i’d say he was passionate about his job. each time he comes, i have to force him to take 3-4k won from me and he only relents because i tell him that as an american i will be offended. perhaps it’s disrespectful to him but for me it’s my way of showing just much i appreciate the great job that he does.
- “umm, is that a mop that just ran over my foot while i was standing, using the toilet? why yes, it was.” in many public bathrooms in korea, particularly in nicer buildings, there are bathroom attendants present. interestingly, they’re usually women. also interesting, they clean nonstop and don’t let a little thing like you doing your business stop them from cleaning. i wasn’t joking about the above example, i recently had a mop run over, around, and through my feet while using the facilities. it was as if the lady was tracing my feet with a mop like a kid would his hand with a pencil. it made me chuckle because this is standard protocol here in the men’s restroom and i don’t even flinch now when it happens. a byproduct of this is that public bathrooms here are definitely the cleanest you’ll find anywhere.
- finally, there are no shoes in the house. at first i hated this little tradition and would wear my shoes in my apartment. but, over time i started to realize the value of keeping my shoes in the entrance and walking around shoeless in my house. the first huge, and obvious, benefit is that your house stays much cleaner. the second is that it psychologically makes you view your house in a warmer, more inviting way. somehow it makes the house seem more welcoming, i can’t really explain why, but it does. the final thing is, you never lose your shoes anymore because all of your shoes are in the shoe closet by the front door. this is definitely a tradition i’m going to carry with me for the rest of life, no matter where i live.
alright, i have a longer list of observations but i have to cut this bad boy short as i’m about to head to airport. i’m leaving in a matter of hours to fly back to los angeles for the holidays. i’m staying with dustin and emily in their new place and the whole family is flying in. ethan is arriving on the 23rd and the rest of us are flying in at the same time on the 24th. it’s a trip i’ve been looking forward to in a big way. i’ve been here for almost four months now and i’m ready for some americana. i’m really enjoying my experience out here but an americana recharge is in order. oh, and it’s my 34th birthday on the 30th so a bunch of my good friends are flying in to celebrate the big day (along with new years the following night). there’s some other cool stuff going on during the trip, a visit to san francisco, a drive down the coast of california… but i’ll save those details for later. it’s going to be a good trip.
take care everyone… have a wonderful holiday with your friends and family.
B
here are some random photos… the first is my lovely grandmother “sally” on her recent 80th birthday, sitting on my grandpa’s lap.
































